Zwieback is dead. Long live zwieback!
If you’re a cinnamon toast aficionado, keep reading.
If you don’t love light, crunchy toast slathered with butter and topped with a shower of crunchy sugar and aromatic cinnamon—why ever not? Keep reading, I’ll convince you.
We all know cinnamon toast. Sliced bread, popped in the toaster, buttered, sugared. What I’m talking about here, though, is a different animal. Known by an array of names.
Zwieback. Korpu. Trenary Toast.
As Shakespeare might have said, had he thought to put down his bowl of breakfast cornflakes and pick up a pen, “A toast by any other name would taste as sweet.”
For those of us who remember Nabisco Zwieback Toasts—and our number is legion, I’d presume—you might notice that they’re no longer on the grocery store shelf. Sadly, they’ve gone to that Big Sam’s Club in the Sky, same place you’ll find Turkish Taffy, Burry Fudgetowns, Royal Lunch crackers, and Hostess Choco-Bliss.
Discontinued. Dropped. “No longer available,” as the marketing arm of their various parent companies will tell you.
But—what about the pie whose crust calls for Zwieback crumbs? The perfect coffee go-with?
And what about the baby?
Because that’s who Zwieback Toasts were originally marketed for: teething babies. It was only after moms started enjoying the leftover crumbs that we adults began enjoying Zwieback, with its faint sweetness, haunting hint of nutmeg and cinnamon, and ethereally light texture.
Gone, all gone. But not forgotten. And now, recreated in a slightly different guise, but with the same delicious flavor and compelling texture.
Finnish Korpu, and Trenary Toast (a native of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula), are both thin-sliced bread, spread with cinnamon sugar and oven-dried to stay good for months. Rather than mimic Nabisco’s thicker Zwieback (which would take a lonnnnnnnng time to dry out in the oven), I decided to clone these, instead.
The result: Zwieback taste and texture, enhanced with cinnamon-sugar. What could be better?
Aside from banana Turkish Taffy, not much.
If you want to follow along with the recipe as you read, here it is: Zwieback.
Here’s one of my favorite ready-made ingredients: our Cinnamon-Sugar Plus, a combination of superfine sugar and Vietnamese cinnamon. You can certainly make your own—with our Baker’s Special Sugar and Vietnamese cinnamon. But however you do it, I’m sure you’ll love this blend of lightly crunchy sugar and super-fragrant cinnamon.
Let’s start with a basic rich yeast dough: King Arthur Flour, sugar, salt, and yeast; milk, eggs, and butter. And a touch of cinnamon and nutmeg.
Knead till smooth. Notice that the dough is slightly sticky—see it clinging to the bottom of the bowl? That’s fine. Never try to make a sticky dough perfectly smooth; all you’re doing is impeding its ability to rise, and encouraging the final loaf to be dry.
Put it in your favorite rising vessel. As always, mine is this 8-cup measure.
Let rise. This isn’t an enthusiastic riser, due to the fat and sugar, but it’ll puff up.
And notice that it’s lost its stickiness. As dough rises, the gluten continues to develop, and the flour continues to absorb moisture, changing a sticky dough into one that’s easily handled.
Divide the dough in half, and shape it into two 12” logs. Space them on a parchment-lined or lightly greased baking sheet. A half-sheet pan is just the right size. Cover and let rise for about 90 minutes.
Again, they won’t double, but will definitely get puffy.
Place in a 350°F oven.
Ah! There’s the rise. Bake for about 22 minutes. Just 22 minutes, really? Yup.
The loaves will get nice and brown, like this. Their internal temperature will be about 190°F. Let the loaves cool overnight, uncovered, on a rack. Yes, uncovered. You want them to start drying out.
Next day, use a ruler to measure out 1/2” slices. Picky, picky… Well, in this case it pays to be picky. If all your slices are pretty much the same thickness, they’ll all dry out at the same rate.
1/2” seems to be the optimum thickness.
Here’s one loaf, cut up and ready to dry in the oven.
At first I thought, ah, just like biscotti. Stand them on end, dry both sides at once.
Problem: They were so finely balanced on their 1/2” width, any small movement in the kitchen—an adjoining oven door slamming, someone with heavy feet—caused them to tumble like dominoes.
Plan B: Just lay them down. One loaf will fit one half-sheet pan perfectly. Minus the little end nubs.
Notice how these are all the same thickness. Nag, nag…
For the MEREST hint of cinnamon, dust with cinnamon sugar.
Bake for an hour in a VERY low oven—about 225°F. The bread will start to dry out.
Remove from the oven, and turn all the pieces over. For cinnamon toasts—remember Korpu and Trenary Toast?—sprinkle each piece with about 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon-sugar. Bake for another hour, until the toasts are very dry and crisp.
And here they are—plain, and cinnamon.
See all the holes? That’s what gives this toast its ethereally light, crunchy texture. Minus the cute kid on the box, I think we’ve got this clone nailed…
Buy vs. Bake
Buy: Trenary Home Bakery, Trenary, MI: Cinnamon Trenary Toast, 32¢/ounce
Nabisco Zwieback Toast, 6-ounce package — formerly 60¢/ounce, but since it’s no longer made: priceless!
Bake at home: Zwieback, 8¢/ounce
April 22nd, 2009 at 11:56 am
I’m always wondering what to use to cover my rising loaves… Just out of curiosity - what did you use to cover your loaves on a half sheet pan?
In our test kitchen we use old fashioned (and no longer available) plastic proofing covers. Some options I have found useful at home are: the chamber of the microwave, under the biggest stainless steel mixing bowl I have, under a brown paper bag, under a cardboard box. Even though I can’t see what is going on, all of these keep the dough in draft free environment and prevent a crust from forming. Frank from KAF.
At home, I use the cheap plastic cover from a deli party platter - it’s see-through, lightweight, and if you get the BIG rectangular party platter, the reclaimed cover will fit over your whole half-sheet pan. PJH
April 22nd, 2009 at 12:26 pm
YES! I LOVED zwieback as a kid, and not the Nabisco stuff; I recall a brand that came in a paper package, much like the Wasa crispbreads do today. THANK YOU for the recipe!
p.s. how about taking a swing at those crispbreads?
Wasa? Sounds do-able, Kathy - what I really like is those paper-thin Kavli crackers - which don’t seem do-able, so I’d best focus on the Wasa… PJH
April 22nd, 2009 at 12:31 pm
Just to add my two cents on the proofing loaves… I just went to the grocery store and found the deepest aluminum pans (I think they were called turkey roasters?) They are disposable, but I am keeping mine around - I like that they can even go into the oven as a cover if I am making a no-knead bread and want a shinier crust (but a longer loaf than the round ones my casserole pan makes). I hope that this helps!
April 22nd, 2009 at 12:44 pm
Oh, you *WOULD* have to mention Choco-Bliss. This just proves my hypothesis that there are powerful psychoactive agents in the flour and RF devices in the catalog that make us share a brain wave, PJH. I LOVED Choco-Bliss.
Home Baking in Astoria, OR makes a phenomenal korpu. It was one of the most common snacks growing up there. Yum.
You’re right, Eric - perhaps we’re both residents of the bake-o-sphere? Choco-Bliss was obscene - Suzy-Q with attitude. AND, yes, I actually have read about Home Baking in Astoria, OR and their korpu…
PJH
April 22nd, 2009 at 3:06 pm
Wanted to add a tip I came up with years ago. I keep a PLASTIC ruler in my kitchen drawer. It’s much easier to clean than a wooden one, can even be put in the dishwasher if you dry without heat. It comes in handy so often.
Yes, good point. I have a plastic one I use most of the time in the kitchen, but its markings aren’t as easy to see as the wooden one, so I use the old wooden one for blog photos… PJH
April 22nd, 2009 at 4:05 pm
CHOCO BLISS!! I used to live off those things as a kid! (my mom wasn’t much of a cook or a stickler when it came to junk food lol)
I love cinnamon. I love toast. I love cinnamon toast. I love crunchy and I love sweet. This recipe is for me.
I will be making this soon, thanks for the recipe!
…and lived to tell the tale, huh? WHO KNEW there were so many closet Choco-Bliss fans out there? Hmmm, sounds like a “clone blog” needs to happen… PJH
April 22nd, 2009 at 4:22 pm
This sounds great will start a batch tonight for my grandsons and of course Grandma will have to sample to make sure they are just right. To cover my loaves I put them in XXL zip bag using either a high rack or glasses supporting the bag off the loafs.
Good idea, Karen - thanks for sharing. PJH
April 22nd, 2009 at 5:41 pm
Thanks for the recipe. Zwieback is an ingredient in a wonderful marzipan coffee cake we make. Now we can continue to do it and enjoy it!
April 22nd, 2009 at 7:50 pm
Turkish Taffy! Now that takes be back a half century! Chocolate and banana were my favorite flavors.
Vanilla, strawberry, banana, and chocolate. Remember putting it in the freezer then shattering it into a zillion pieces?
PJH
April 22nd, 2009 at 9:45 pm
Oh my gosh, I should never have read this blog - not this week, I’m trying to do South Beach (don’t even ask…)
I LOVE cinnamon toast and crunchy bread
Hang in there, Marion - the first three weeks will be over soon… I actually like South Beach, it makes sense and seems to work, but it’s tough if you like bread. Save this recipe for a month or so from now… Good luck! PJH
April 22nd, 2009 at 11:29 pm
Nostalgia man…child of the 80’s checking in and I remember those divine toasts. A kid in my kindergarten class who listed those as his favorite cookie.
I actually bought Melba toast not too long ago thinking it was the same thing. Boy was I wrong.
I’m definitely going to have to try a non-dairy version of these really soon. I know the flavor of the toast will be a bit flatter (at least imo) but until we get our youngest past the dairy intolerance we’re using alternatives. Regardless, in my house, these won’t last the weekend.
April 23rd, 2009 at 4:49 am
Oh, thank you for the memory. Yum, I will now be able to my own and smile.
April 23rd, 2009 at 6:45 am
Please tell me what Choco-Bliss is/was! All these swoonings and moanings, and I have no idea what you are talking about! Also korpu. I seem to have missed out on something here.
As for Zwieback, that I remember. I was given a copycat recipe for that nearly 30 years ago but haven’t made it in years and years. My mouth is watering now! Mine is made of a mildly sweet dough much like yours, but it is baked in 13/9 cake pans, cut lengthwise into three strips, then sliced and baked to dry them out as yours is. I’ll have to do it again, soon. Thanks for bringing that idea back!
Well, here’s a comment from another blog about Choco-Bliss. It’ll give you the idea:
“By now you might be wondering just what in God’s name a Choco-Bliss cake was. Its closest living relative is a Hostess “Suzy-Q,” but this thing was eighty times more indulgent. Let me break it down: there were two devil’s food cakes smacked together, with the upper cake being topped with chocolate cake icing. In-between the cakes was a light whipped chocolate, effecting transforming Choco-Bliss into the most disgustingly tasty treat … As you’d imagine, the cakes were insanely thick — taller than a Twinkie and nearly double the width.”
Also, for a laugh, here’s a link to a YouTube video showing a Choco-Bliss commercial from the ’80s
- Boy, times have changed. PJH
April 23rd, 2009 at 8:21 am
Bless you, bless you, bless you - I have been in dire straits without my zwieback!
April 23rd, 2009 at 9:54 am
Based on your recipe and descriptions of Zwieback toast, it sounds a lot like Jacobsen’s snack toast. I have some and they’re about 1/2 inch thick with cinnamon & sugar sprinkled on top. I’m guessing they might be a decent substitute for Zwieback. It comes in different flavors: Original, Cinnamon, Cinnamon Raisin, Blueberry, Raspberry and Honey Maple. I’ve only ever had cinnamon.
Maybe this is one of those “regional” items that is only available in certain areas of the country. (They’re a Minnesota company.) You’ll have to try it and let me know if it compares to Zwieback.
Must be regional, Kim - I’ve never seen it at our groceries here in NH/Vermont… Sounds yummy, though. PJH
April 23rd, 2009 at 12:55 pm
Oh my gosh, you are a genius… these sound fabulous, I’d love to try ‘em!
April 23rd, 2009 at 2:27 pm
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! For months I have been looking in supermarkets in southern NH for Zweiback that I use for crust for my German Cheesecake made with cottage cheese. I had last made it about a year and a half ago. Now I know I am not crazy. My mother always made that cheesecake (and she’s been gone for over 45 years!). I will try this recipe soon. I’d love to have Fred’s recipe for marzipan coffee cake - I usually make my own marzipan.
April 23rd, 2009 at 3:37 pm
When mixing up cinnamon sugar at home, what proportions do you recommend? (If I missed this info someplace else, my apology in advance).
Thanks!
Whatever suits your taste, Amy - When I do it, I start with the amount of sugar I want, then add cinnamon till it looks right - very light, medium, or dark, according to your preference. Be bold! Experiment. PJH
April 23rd, 2009 at 5:45 pm
Have you tried Holland Rusk? It is similar to zwieback, but better. And it makes a GREAT cheesecake crust. (Be sure to crush it with a rolling pin, NOT the food processor tho. It turns in to powder in the FP.)
April 25th, 2009 at 10:04 am
Jacobsen’s was a Swedish bakery on the East Side of St. Paul, MN. I’m sure they made their cinnamon toast from day-old bread. We ate it as kids with peanut butter and dunked it in hot cocoa. That was a special breakfast treat. I fondly remember walking out of the bakery with a white paper bag full of cinnamon toast.
April 25th, 2009 at 11:04 am
My only memories of zwieback are my younger cousins, when they were babies, with zwieback slobber all down thier fronts, on the couch, the car, etc.
So I’m guessing from all the choco bliss comments we should be expecting a recipe here pretty soon? Or did I miss it already?
Kari, Choco-Bliss - I’m working on it, won’t be for awhile… But oh, the experiments promise to be LOTS of fun! PJH
April 25th, 2009 at 12:41 pm
Thank you so much for the Zwieback recipe. I can’t wait to try it. I had been trying to locate Nabisco Zwieback at every supermarket in my area for the past year. I finally called Nabisco and they told me it had been discontinued .
I use the Zwieback for a crust for an award winning cheesecake of my mother’s that I have been baking for over 30 years!
April 25th, 2009 at 2:17 pm
JanH, I have been looking for Holland Rusk for a while (I haven’t tried on-line yet), but I was told at three different supermarkets that it’s no longer available!
I’m glad to know that someone has used it recently - I’ll get online later and try to find some. I used to love it as a kid at my grandmother’s house!
I intend to make the Zwieback soon - I love cinnamon toast!
April 26th, 2009 at 1:54 am
nice sharing
thnks
www.saitechzone.org
April 26th, 2009 at 10:06 am
I’m wondering if anyone has tried this recipe yet? If so, can anyone tell me if this tastes exactly like the old Nabisco brand? The cheesecake recipe that my grandmother handed down to my mother, then myself (taken from a magazine back in the 50’s or 60’s I’m told) calls for them and I’ve tried using the gerber brand, as well as even making my own, and nothing came close to the flavor that the Nabisco brand gave us. Every once in a while I search the web hoping to see if anyone has tried and successfully replicated the exact flavor that the Nabisco brand had. I’m hoping this is it!
Keith, I’ve made the zwieback - really! You can see the pictures. And Andrea, one of my fellow test bakers, is a huge Nabisco Zwieback fan. She guided me as to the correct taste - and told me she thinks that it comes pretty darned close. You’ll have to try it yourself to see, as everyone’s taste-memory is different. Have at it - PJH
April 26th, 2009 at 5:35 pm
PJ, I made it!!! They are very easy to make. Too bad I haven’t tried the original ones, otherwise I could have answered Keith. I like the crunch and the cinnamon taste. I purposely left some plain pieces and they taste just as good. The formula I took from Professional Baking is 100% : 3 % (Sugar: cinnamon, i.e. 125g sugar : 4g of cinnamon powder.)
I am wondering if I could use the asiago sundried tomato bread recipe and have them turned out as toasts like this Zweiback?????
I think so, Angelina, so long as the little flecks of tomato don’t blacken and become bitter - give it a try let us know how it goes. PJH
April 26th, 2009 at 6:17 pm
Hi, I am very fond of baking bread,I just learnt it recently.I tried your Toast. it turned out beautiful.My husband loves it.Thanks alot for sharing your recipe.
April 27th, 2009 at 10:38 am
Choco-bliss, FROZEN. Perfect.
April 29th, 2009 at 5:56 pm
How long do these keep? I’m thinking of making these for a friend to use for her teething baby (probably sans cinnamon sugar). Do they keep well if they’re airtight, or could they be frozen?
These are great, Abbey, as they keep indefinitely at room temperature (in a closed jar, plastic bag, etc.) - so long as they’re thoroughly dried. So I don’t recommend freezing, as you don’t need to - they’re VERY stable just at room temp. Hope the baby enjoys them (sans the extra sugar) - PJH
May 1st, 2009 at 4:11 pm
I notice there’s 4 cups of flour in this recipe which leads me to a question, can this then be mixed in the bread machine??? So looking forward to trying this recipe.
Absolutely, Sylvia. The bread machine can actually knead up to 6 cups of flour- it just can’t bake that much, as it’ll overflow. In fact, best to take it out (6 cups flour) and put it in a bowl to rise. I’m assuming a bread machine with a 2-lb. capacity… PJH
May 9th, 2009 at 3:28 pm
While you’re on the choco-bliss crusade, can I ask for a Brown Edge Cookie clone? Remember those? My Swedish grandmother used to keep a box in her pantry and my fondest treat was getting two to sit and eat with her while watching TV when I visited. I’m thinking there is some potato flour and maybe baker’s ammonia in those cookies somewhere?
And I think Devil Dogs are close to Choco-bliss aren’t they? Sadly, I live in South Dakota now and Devil Dogs are nowhere to be found!
May 19th, 2009 at 6:55 am
My four month old is almost ready to eat solids, this will be a great thing for him to try a few months down the line, once he gets the hang of rice cereal. My toddler will gobble these up, though - he loves any bread I make (usually your recipes!)
June 27th, 2009 at 2:03 pm
Questions for King Arthur moderator please.
First let me say great write-up and terrific photos, which is what my questions relate to.
Although the recipe calls for 4-cups flour and 1-cup milk, not to mention the other ingredients, the dough only comes up to the 3-cup marker on the measuring cup. Can that be? Also, after it has risen, the dome of the dough comes up to about the 5-cup marker but the amount of dough the person is holding in the following photo seems massive by comparison.
An explanation/clarification on these two points would be most appreciated.
Hi Mitch - Once you add liquid to flour it becomes very compacted, which is why the ending volume doesn’t seem to equate with the beginning. And the amount of dough I’m holding looks massive because it’s close to the camera lens - no other reason. Go forth with confidence… PJH
September 11th, 2009 at 2:12 pm
I’ve been looking for zwieback toast (for the baby) for awhile now. They just dissolved in the baby’s mouth and the flavor was subtle and lovely. The big plus was that the baby did not choke on them like she did with the biter biscuits. Way too scary! Your recipe reads easily do-able and I’m looking forward to serving them to the newest members of the family.
September 24th, 2009 at 10:39 am
Went to make my Mother’s recipe for cheesecake for my boyfriend…Mom always made this receipe for my Dad for his birthday! He passed more than 38 years ago, just a hint at how old the recipe must be. Her recipe calls for Zwiebach toast crumbs. I searched three different stores not knowing it was disconntinued! I ended up using Stella Dora Almond Cookies (looks like biscotti) and it was perfect! Just the right flavor - the crumbs were a bit more coarse than Zwieback but perfectly acceptable. I had forgotten how good this cheesecake recipe was!
November 3rd, 2009 at 2:37 pm
THANK YOU! I have a wonderful German Cheesecake recipe that I make almost every Christmas, and the crust calls for Zwieback crumbs.
With them being discontinued I thought it would have to go the same route as my recipe for Shark Fin soup. (Yes, that is a real recipe). And, graham crackers (which some people have suggested as a suitable substitute) do NOT taste the same.
Thank you for saving one of our favorite Christmas recipes.
We aim to please… Thanks for sharing - PJH
November 13th, 2009 at 7:53 pm
On the zwieback toast box it also lists mace as one of the spices in addition to cinnamon and nutmeg. Did you eliminate this on purpose or does it taste too much like nutmeg(I haven’t tasted it so I can’t say) and would you adjust how much you put in the recipe if you do add it or just keep all the spices equal. I too am very disappointed that zwieback is off the market I have a wonderful recipe for walnut torte which I made a while back and that was the last I was ever able to find. I too bought the stella dora almond biscuits to try but have not made the recipe yet.
Hi Irene - I leave the mace out of recipes since hardly anyone stocks it in their pantry. And yes, since it’s part of the nutmeg plant, it does taste very similar. If you add it, cut back on the nutmeg by an equal amount; I think that should work. PJH