Baguettes: DO try this at home.

Baguettes. Crusty, golden… unattainable-except-from-an-artisan-bakery baguettes.

Not so. And we’re here to prove it to you.

The late Prof. Raymond Calvel, France’s acclaimed “godfather of bread,” visited this country and did a “blind” baguette baking, using a variety of American flours to make his signature crusty loaf. The result? King Arthur Flour was Calvel’s choice as being most similar to his beloved French flour.

Flour is the baguette’s main ingredient: it makes up nearly 60% of the bread, by weight, so it’s a critical element. And guess what? The best American baguette flours are right here at your fingertips: King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour, and King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour. They’re also available in any major grocery store. The only other ingredients are yeast, water, salt… and time.

For sure, the baguette isn’t the very first loaf you’d tackle as a beginning bread baker, no more than you’d expect to step into the box at Fenway Park the first time you held a baseball bat in your hands. But it’s something to aspire to, once you’ve gotten your feet wet (and your hands floury).

The feeling of accomplishment you’ll get from pulling a deep-brown, crackly-crisp baguette out of your own oven is indescribable. Even the loaf itself celebrates your success: hold it up to your ear to hear its signature “song” as it cools. (What, you’ve never done that? Try it…)

The path to homemade baguettes is long, but not rocky. You’ll spend most of the time going about your business as the flour, water, and yeast quietly make their magic. Some initial kneading is followed by lots of resting and rising; a minimal bit of shaping precedes the finale, 25 minutes in a very hot oven. And that’s it: baguettes.

Ready? Let’s make Classic Baguettes and Stuffed Baguettes.

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First you’re going to make a starter. Mix flour, water, and just a pinch of yeast, and let it rest for about 14 hours at room temperature.

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The picture above shows what it’ll look like after its rest: soft and bubbly, kind of like a pancake when it’s ready to flip to the other side. If you’re planning to bake on a Saturday, make the starter late-afternoon Friday, and it’ll be ready to go Saturday morning. This first rest gives the yeast a chance to start growing.

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Next day, place the starter, flour, and salt in a mixing bowl (or bread machine bucket). Then, pour the designated amount of water into your starter container; you don’t want to waste any of those stuck-on bits of starter. If you’re using active dry yeast, stir it into the water, as pictured above.

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Whisk it around; it’ll soften, but not fully dissolve.

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Pour it into the bowl with the other ingredients.

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If you’re using a stand mixer, knead briefly with the beater, just till the dough becomes cohesive.

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Then switch to the dough hook, kneading for about 5 minutes on speed 2; the dough will still be a big “gnarly.” If you’re kneading by hand, knead till the dough is soft and elastic, but not totally smooth. In the bread machine, let it knead for about 10 minutes.

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Gather the dough into a ball; notice its surface is fairly rough. You don’t want to knead it too much, as the gluten will continue to develop during its long rise. If you kneaded the dough till it was absolutely smooth, it would be over-developed by the time it was done rising: too stiff, difficult to shape.

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Put the dough into a greased, covered container, and let it rise for 1 hour.

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See the bubbles forming? The yeast is doing its work. Deflate it, and let it rise for another hour. Repeat once more; the dough will rise for a total of 3 hours.

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Now look how smooth it’s become—all on its own!

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Look how lovely and elastic it is, too. If you’d kneaded it fully at first, it wouldn’t stretch like this.

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Divide the dough into three pieces, flatten into rough ovals, and let them rest for 15 minutes. This gives the gluten a chance to relax. Gluten can be recalcitrant; the more you stretch it, the tighter it gets. Letting dough relax before shaping makes it MUCH easier to work with.

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After 15 minutes, flatten one piece of dough into a rough rectangle.

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Fold it over…

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…and seal the edge with your fingers.

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Flatten again…

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And fold and seal again. Look how the dough has lengthened from 8” to 12” during this process.

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Turn it so the seam side is down.

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And roll gently, starting in the center…

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And working your way out to the edges. Don’t press down hard; just gently roll the dough under your cupped fingers, and it’ll lengthen on its own. If it doesn’t, give it a 15-minute rest, while you work on the other two pieces, then come back to it.

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Put the 15” baguettes onto a parchment-lined or lightly greased baking sheet. If you have a triple baguette pan, lay each of the baguettes in one of the lightly greased wells of the pan.

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Or do what they do in France: let them rise on a couche, a flour-rubbed towel. Sprinkle flour heavily on a linen couche or smooth cotton towel; I’m using a towel here. Rub the flour into the cloth.

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“Cradle” the baguettes in the folds of the towel.

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Here they are, ready to rise; cover them with a free-standing cover, or with greased plastic wrap.

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And here are the risen loaves. Don’t let them rise TOO much; they should be puffy, but nowhere near doubled in size. If you let them rise too much, they’re hard to handle, and they won’t rise well in the oven.

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If you’ve used the couche method, gently roll each baguette onto the prepared baking sheet. (If you want to bake on a pizza stone, roll onto a piece of parchment which you’ve set atop your peel.)

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The baguette will probably land floured side up.

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Gently roll it over so the floured side is on the bottom. Repeat with the remaining two baguettes.

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Spritz heavily with warm water. This mimics the effect of a steam oven, and will help give the baguettes a slightly shiny, crunchy crust. If you’ve made baguettes before and like to a) spray water into your oven, b) throw ice cubes into a hot pan on the oven floor, or c) make steam via some other method, go for it. Whatever works for you is fine. I find spraying with water easiest, as I don’t have to keep opening the oven (and letting heat escape) once the baguettes are in.

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Next, you’re going to make three diagonal slashes in each baguette. Hold the sharp knife at a 45° angle to the bread, be quick, and use firm strokes.
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Notice the lovely air bubbles inside the slash. The yeast has been doing its work for probably 18 or 19 hours now…

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If you’ve done your slashing correctly, the loaves will look a bit deflated; that’s OK.

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The high heat of the 450°F oven will pick them right back up again!

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And here they are: your very own baguettes! Be sure to bake them long enough; they should appear almost charred in spots.

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Homemade baguettes won’t have QUITE the large-holed interior of artisan bakery baguettes, but they’ll still be “holey” enough to trap and hold olive oil or butter.

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Here’s a cross-section view. For larger holes, make a softer dough by adding more liquid. The challenge is to find that “sweet spot”: more liquid, more holes; too much liquid, the baguettes flatten out.

Buy vs. Bake


Buy: Artisan bakery 9-ounce baguette, $2.95


Bake at home: Homemade 9-ounce baguette, 43¢

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OK, here’s another fun thing to make: stuffed baguettes. Divide the dough into six pieces instead of three, and shape each into a 5”-long rectangle.

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Layer with meat and cheese (in this case, ham, Swiss, and mustard). Don’t use too much filling, as it’ll make the baguettes soggy.

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Roll up like a jelly roll, sealing the long seam and pinching the ends closed.

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I might have been able to put all six on this pan, but I decided not to crowd them.

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Slash twice; or don’t.

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Slashed baguette on the left; plain on the right. It’s mostly a matter of looks.

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YUM! The tunnel in the center is pretty much inevitable, as the bread rises and the filling doesn’t. But never mind the look, this is just plain delicious. Enjoy!

Check out our recipe for Classic Baguettes and Stuffed Baguettes.

PJ Hamel
About

PJ Hamel grew up in New England, graduated from Brown University, and was a Maine journalist before joining King Arthur Flour in 1990. PJ bakes and writes from her home on Cape Cod, where she enjoys beach-walking, her husband, two dogs, and really good food!

comments

  1. Kate Matthews

    I have access to a convection oven with a steam feature. How would I adjust this recipe for that? Would the temp of the oven be different? How many times should I steam while baking? Should I still spray the loaf with the water? Thanks!

    Reply
    1. The Baker's Hotline

      Hi Kate. The temperature would stay the same, but the steaming process will depend on the make an model of your oven so you’ll want to follow the suggestions in the oven’s manual. In general, you want to give a burst of steam right when you close the oven door, and then another quick burst after about 5 minutes. If the oven can only be set to do one burst of steam, go with the one at the beginning. Annabelle@KAF

    1. The Baker's Hotline

      There are a few factors that contribute to a bakery-style baguette with an open crumb, including high hydration (a relatively wet dough), and the steam-injected ovens that are used to bake the baguettes. If you’re not already doing so, try measuring your flour by weight with a scale to ensure you’re using precisely the right amount. (You can even try holding back 1 to 2 ounces if you’d like to experiment with an even wetter dough.) As for the steam, it will help make the crust golden brown and crisp, as well as encourage a more open crumb on the interior. We recommend checking out this article about how to bake with steam at home. It’ll help you get closer to that bakery-worthy baguette you’re searching for. Good luck! Kye@KAF

  2. hermsoven

    Tried to keep it simple with good results. Creating a complex recipe does not guarantee a better outcome.
    72% hydration – 492g 00 flour, 355g water
    NO sourdough starter
    2 tsp SAF instant yeast
    2 tsp kosher salt
    Pulse ingredients about 15 times about 1 second each.
    Dough covered in mixing bowl for 1 hour rise.
    Deflate and allow another 1 hour rise.
    Cut dough into 3 equal portions, fold each in half gently and SEE RECIPE PHOTOS for shaping instructions.
    Gently roll dough portions to fit gutters of baguette pan (15″), place baguettes in pan, cover with lightly dampened towel and pre-heat oven to 450°F for 30 minutes.
    Slash baguettes and spray them with water.
    Bake 2 minutes and spray again.
    Bake 2 more minutes and spray again.
    Bake 2 more minutes, toss1/4 cup of water onto oven floor, quickly close oven door and bake for 25 minutes.
    Turn off oven, open door about 2 inches and allow baguettes to cool for 2-3 minutes before removing them to finish cooling.

    Reply
  3. Christopher Smith

    I’ve done plain baguettes and epi’s using KA recipe and this blog for help, all have worked well. I made stuffed one’s last weekend, decided on cheeseburger. Cooked and drained ground beef, american and parm cheese. They were very good. My wife wants to try the ham and cheese next.

    Thanks for the help and inspiration!

    Reply
  4. Reno Dave

    When making the stuffed baguette option, what is the baking regimen?
    Do you have to adjust oven temperature and/or baking time based on filling(s)?
    Thanks!!
    Reno Dave

    Reply
    1. The Baker's Hotline

      Reno, the baking temperature should be the same for stuffed baguettes: 450°F. The baking time may vary slightly based on what ingredients (and how much) you use for stuffing. It will likely take about 30-35 minutes, more if using lots of cheese and meat. Tent the loaves with foil halfway through baking if they’re getting too brown. Happy baking! Kye@KAF

  5. Brian

    I’m making baguettes for the 2nd time today, and my dough is really soft and doesn’t form a ball like in the pictures. I followed the recipe exactly, and even used the weight measurements. The dough is really sticky. How do I get it to form a ball?

    Reply
    1. The Baker's Hotline

      Hi Brian, are you making this recipe or another baguette recipe? Adding extra folds to the bulk rise period is an easy way to gently strengthen your dough. Even if the dough is quite sticky after the kneading process, it will usually strengthen considerably during the bulk rise, especially if you add periodic folds (every hour or so). If you happened to substitute another brand of flour for our flour, this could explain your stickier dough. Our flour tends to be on the high end for protein content and will absorb more water than other brands of flour and will also develop a stronger dough. Feel free to use a little flour when shaping your baguettes to help prevent the dough from sticking to your hands. For more help with your baguettes, please give our Baker’s Hotline a call at 855-371-2253(BAKE). Barb@KAF

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